Simple (and Effective) Nymphing

If you're a member of the "Dry or Die" fraternity, then here's a good spot to stop reading. However, if you're an open minded fly fisherman looking to maximize your chances of catching fish, read on. Now, I have nothing against catching fish on a dry fly -- how can one not like the challenge of carefully presenting a fly and coaxing a hungry fish into eating it? Especially when you get to see the whole event unfold! But fish are not always looking up, and it's well known that approximately 80% of a fish's calories are munched subsurface (in some fisheries, the number is north of 95%).

Nymphing is, simply, fishing with a nymph or wet fly instead of a dry fly. Although a nymph can be fished dry, and there are a wide variety of methods and rigging techniques, one setup/technique is very simple and effective and can be used in the majority of nymphing situations.
- start with a 9' tapered leader
- snip off the last (thinnest) 16" of the leader, then re-tie to the leader using a blood knot
- tie on a nymph with a standard or improved clinch knot
- pinch a tin (not lead) split shot onto the leader just above your blood knot (it won't slip down to the fly when secured above a knot)
- attach a strike indicator 1.5x the depth of water you'll be fishing

Leader
The length and diameter/strength of the leader depends on the water you're fishing, and standard fare is a 9' 4x monofilament leader. I usually trim off a bit of the end, then tie on a 14" length of 4x or 5x fluorocarbon tippet. After tying on new flies your leader will become shorter and shorter. Instead of using a new leader, just tie on more tippet, keeping 12-16" below the last blood knot so your tin shot doesn't slip.

Fly
The size and variety of fly depends of course on what the fish want to see in the water you're fishing and at the time of year you're fishing. To increase your chances of catching fish (and tangling) you can add a second fly by attaching a 14" piece of tippet to the shank of your first fly with a clinch knot. The first fly (closest to the weight) is usually bigger than the second fly to keep your entire rig tapered for more efficient casting. The first fly can also be used as an "attractor" since it's likely the first fly a fish will see. For example, a prince nymph or san juan worm may get the fish's attention, then it sees the love of its livelihood, a size 22 midge pupae drifting along right behind it! Dropping one size in tippet between the two flies is a good idea when using a smaller fly -- you decrease the possibility of the fish seeing the tippet, and the smaller tippet acts as a fuse if the second fly gets snagged (you only lose one fly when yanking your rig free).

Split Shot
More and more waters have banned lead , so do yourself and the environment a favor and just purchase tin shot (typically green colored). The amount of weight you use depends on current speed and depth. You need to get your nymph(s) on the bottom, where the fish hold (the current is slower at the bottom of a river due to friction, so fish use fewer calories when holding on the bottom). The deeper the water and the faster the current, the more weight you will need to get the fly to the bottom. You can buy a variety pack of shot which comes with four or six different sizes so you are ready for all conditions. Sometimes you will need three AAA (big) shot, sometimes one size 8 (small). The type of water I typically fish calls for one size 2, but occasionally I'll use two 2's, add a 6 and/or an 8...the point is that getting your fly on/near the bottom is essential. Your fly should hit bottom (as evidenced by your strike indicator ticking or diving) approximately every 4th cast, or you are not fishing deep enough.



Strike Indicator
My favorite strike indicator is a poly-yarn indicator with a rubber o-ring. One model has a small foam cylinder surrounded by yarn, and I like the fire tiger color. These work great, are visible in all conditions and stay afloat well, especially if you rub in a little floatant. If it gets windy or the water is low, slow, and clear, I like either the hot head or the Thingamabobber. The Thingamabobber casts better in the wind and comes in very small sizes for risk-averse fish, but has a tendency to slip down if used on the thin part of the leader.

Casting
You should be forceful on the backcast to rip all the stuff out of the water, and forceful on the forecast to ensure it doesn't all fall in a heap on the water in front of you (or in your lap if you're in a boat). Keep false casts to a minimum. False casts while nymphing should be used to either measure/add line or to change direction, and sometimes to snap water out of your yarn indicator. And don't try to throw tight loops, or you will be in for a mess. Use a little less wrist and a little more arm to achieve wider loops.

The Drift
Cast across and upstream from your target, and let your indicator and rig dead drift to your target. Mending your line one or more times is usually needed to achieve a good drift. If you don’t get a dead drift the drag on your line will pull your nymph(s) up off the bottom, as will a poor mend that pulls on the indicator. A good drift is when your indicator is drifting at the same speed as your fly, which means your indicator should be drifting slightly slower than the surface current (remember the current on the bottom is slower due to friction). If your indicator is drifting at the same speed as the surface current, your flies are moving too fast and that situation won't look realistic to the fish.

Set the Hook!
When your indicator hesitates, bounces, sinks, or tears across the water, set the hook! Don't assume your fly ticked the bottom -- the takes can be very subtle, and there will be a slight delay between the take and the indication of a take (via the indicator). Set the hook downstream, because the fish was most likely looking upstream when it took your fly, so setting the hook upstream could pull the fly right out of its mouth.

That's all there is to it! So for your next trip make sure you bring the correct nymphing gear, ask your local shop for advice on flies, and if the fish aren't eating on top give this technique a try!