I'll Never Have to Worry About Appendicitis Again

In May I was at a hotel in Fremont, CA on a business trip when my stomach started hurting...badly. While writing in pain I managed to phone my wife and ask her to look up symptoms of food poisoning. I had eaten sushi the day before, so I assumed I must have food poisoning. I even had her call our friends who had also eaten sushi with us. Nobody else was sick, and I did not have the symptoms of food poisoning. I reluctantly asked her to check the symptoms of appendicitis, which led to me calling the nurse helpline. The nurse told me I needed to get to a hospital within the next four hours. But the pain abated somewhat, I was able to grab a few hours of sleep, and I flew to LA the next day for meetings. I didn't feel great, but the worst was over. (Note: I know for a fact that at least 80% of men would have also have ignored the nurse on the phone)

Fast forward to early September. Due to my busy work schedule my 8-year-old daughter and I had not taken our annual backpacking trip. So even though the weather forecast for Labor Day weekend wasn't ideal, we decided to head out on an overnighter to a lake near the Montana/Idaho border.

We did not pack fishing equipment because a lot of times at these high mountain lakes you don't have room to backcast, and I didn't want to dig my spinning gear out of the basement. Also my daughter, although good at it, is not exactly gonzo about fishing.

The hike in was around 4 miles and moderately steep (as gauged by my daughter's moderate level of fatigue). Upon reaching our destination, we found that there were no good places to camp; however a group of three men with their camp already set up told us there was a nice spot with good views just down the trail near a smaller lake. We made our way around the first lake and down to the second lake. The spot for a tent was on a slight incline and there was a pile of bear scat next to our cooking area (picture), but the views were great and we had the lake to ourselves.

After setting up our tent, we explored the perimeter of the lake, grazing on huckleberries and scouting for animal tracks. We scrambled up a ridgeline to scout our next day's day hike the top of a nearby peak. Back at our campsite, we collected firewood, built a nice fire, ate dinner, told stories and fell asleep under a clear sky and rising moon.

The next day did not go as planned. At around 2:30am I woke up either to the sound of a strong wind, evergreen needles falling on the tent, extreme stomach pain, or all three. Once awake, the excruciating pain kept me awake all night, and every time I changed positions to try to better my situation I would break friction and slide down towards the foot of the tent (remember the incline). Squirming back up into position was not easy or pleasant. I knew what was wrong: it was my appendix. I hoped it was salmonella in my Clif Bar; or perhaps my water filter had not filtered out some giardia. But the symptoms were the same as I had experienced in California a few months earlier, the pain I ignored, the pain that went away. The only difference was, this time the pain was not going away.

After 6 hours of excruciating pain, I woke my daughter and told her there was a problem. I told her she had to hike up to the two campsites at the other lake and ask for help. Needless to say she was a bit scared, and started to weep. I was scared too. I was worried for my life, and worried about sending her off alone. I told her if she saw a moose (I had heard one at some point during the night) to wait for it to leave the trail and give it a wide berth. She asked about bears and I told her that they would run away. So she bucked up, put on a few layers of clothing, stepped out of the tent into a cold morning rain, and hiked up the trail.

After a while I started to worry that my daughter had been gone too long, and that perhaps in order to save myself I had sent her into the waiting jaws of a mountain lion. The guilt combined with the pain was almost unbearable.

Then I heard a voice: "Hi, my name is Kerry. Your very brave daughter tells me you might be having a problem with your appendix?" A man from Idaho and his two cousins were outside the tent. They told me that I needed to get to a hospital, and asked if I thought I could hike out. I wasn't sure I could, but at this point I knew I had to move. I swallowed some ibuprofen, stuck my contacts in my eyes, got dressed, packed a few things in my daughter's backpack, handed our food bag to Kerry (I remembered the bear scat), and exited the tent. I considered packing the tent, sleeping bags, etc. in my backpack and packing it out but was told in no uncertain terms that was a bad idea. So I buried the pain, and with my brave daughter and our escorts, hiked out.

Kerry and his cousins hiked the entire way out with us to make sure we were safe. The hike was wet, and slow, but we had the right clothing and made it out without incident. Back at the trailhead, one of the three men drove our car to the nearest point of civilization, with their vehicle following. I started feeling feverish, getting chilled, and needed to warm up. I called a nurse friend and she told me (in very un-medical terms) that knowing me, if something forced me out of the mountains there was probably a real issue; and by the way, my symptoms were classic appendicitis. I called my wife and told her about the situation and that I was going to start driving west, she needed to start driving east, and I would call her when I thought we were going to cross paths or when I pulled over, whichever came first.

My daughter and I made it about thirty miles and I had to pull over. I called my wife and she took the proper exit and picked us up. I was in and out of sleep for the seventy minute drive to the hospital. The pain was still there, though not at the levels I had experienced earlier. I was admitted to the ER, and after a few tests and a CAT-Scan I was told my appendix was "nicely enlarged". The nurses added an antibiotic drip to my IV, and few hours later my appendix was removed via arthroscopic surgery.

After the surgery as I lay awake in my hospital bedroom, a thought came to mind: I would never have to worry about appendicitis on another backpacking trip or fishing trip outside the service area of modern civilization! Then I thought: when did I ever worry about this before?

My goal with this blog is to impart some fishing advice in every post, so here are two pieces of advice.

It turns out Kerry has a friend who almost died recently of appendicitis, and now is enduring other long-term health issues as a result. After my surgery I called my parents to let them know what happened and my father told me his cousin died from a burst appendix. My advice: learn the symptoms of appendicitis and if you are fishing and you have a flare up of appendicitis -- even if there is a once in a lifetime hatch and the fish are rising everywhere around you -- stop fishing and seek medical care immediately. That way that great hatch won’t actually be a once in a lifetime hatch.

Finally, If you are on a piece of water catching fish, go out of your way to help others with the right fly selection or technique. Call it karma or the golden rule, but you will be richer in the end. You will catch more fish, because teaching and sharing reinforces your own learning and you will become a more pensive fly fisherman. I believe that the fact that Kerry and his cousins were there to help and did help was in part a result of many seasons of sharing flies and giving advice on the water. I told Kerry I wasn't sure how to thank him, and he told me if I'm ever in his shoes, just do the same thing. I would and I will.

Three Clinch Knots, Including a "Better" Clinch Knot

Fishing knots number in the dozens, but for the majority of fly fishing situations there is only one that you need to know in order to tie your fly to your line – the clinch knot. This article and accompanying videos will discuss and show you how to tie my three favorite terminal tackle knots – the clinch knot and two variations of the clinch knot -- my “better” clinch knot, and the Trilene knot.

I learned to tie a clinch knot as a boy fishing for catfish at a lake in New Hampshire. One night we were laying down on the beach at our favorite catfish hole, looking up at the stars, waiting for our rods to be dragged towards the water. An old-timer apparently knew about our not-so-secret spot and joined us. He asked me if I knew how to tie a “fisherman’s knot”. I told him I wasn’t sure (“fisherman’s knot” was kind of a generic name) and held his flashlight while he showed me the knot. “Five wraps,” he said. “Then pass it back through and pull it tight.”

Clinch Knot

The clinch knot is an all-purpose knot for tying on terminal tackle (tippet to fly). The knot is easy to tie, pretty strong, and great for the majority of situations when tying a fly onto tippet. The following video shows how to tie a clinch knot.



One tip that may save you some flies (and lost fish) is to vary the number of times you wrap the line back around itself. The standard is five, as the old-timer in New Hampshire taught me. Over time I’ve learned that five is an average; more or fewer wraps will make a better knot depending on the size of the tippet and hook eye. I will wrap six or seven times when the hook eye is outsized in relation to the tippet diameter, and only four times when the hook eye is undersized in relation to the tippet diameter. For example, with 5x tippet and a size 12 fly I may use 6 wraps; with 3x tippet and a size 8 fly I will typically use 4 wraps. Time on the water and a few broken tippets will tell you what’s ideal. This strategy applies to the following two knots as well.


A Better Clinch Knot

An “improved” clinch knot exists, and it’s a fine knot. However, I came up with my own version which, in addition to the improved security (from knot slippage) afforded by the improved clinch, is stronger than either the clinch or improved clinch. The following video shows how to tie my “better” clinch knot, including a slow motion replay of the secret sauce.



I use my “better” clinch knot for tying on almost all my flies. The exceptions are when I’m using 3x tippet, in which case I’ll usually go with a standard clinch; and when I’m using flies with really big hook eyes or stripping streamers, in which case I’ll use a Trilene knot (explained below).


Trilene Knot

I’m not sure if Trilene (Berkley) fishing company invented this knot, but apparently they get credit. The Trilene knot is tied the same way as the regular clinch knot, with one difference – you loop the line through the hook eye twice to start the process. Watch the following video to learn how to tie the Trilene knot.



I find that the Trilene knot is superior when tying on a big bead-head wooly bugger with 3x or 4x (and especially 5x if you have to go that light). Sometimes I’ll use it when I have to go with 4x or 5x to a big dry fly, which I don’t like to do unless the fish are really leader shy.

Give all three of these knots a try. I recommend practicing a few times at home using tippet and flies (not just bare hooks) because the “better” clinch and the Trilene knot can be a bit awkward to tie at first. Hopefully you’ll lose fewer flies to snags and you’ll land more fish. And be sure to share your skills with a kid!

Simple (and Effective) Nymphing

If you're a member of the "Dry or Die" fraternity, then here's a good spot to stop reading. However, if you're an open minded fly fisherman looking to maximize your chances of catching fish, read on. Now, I have nothing against catching fish on a dry fly -- how can one not like the challenge of carefully presenting a fly and coaxing a hungry fish into eating it? Especially when you get to see the whole event unfold! But fish are not always looking up, and it's well known that approximately 80% of a fish's calories are munched subsurface (in some fisheries, the number is north of 95%).

Nymphing is, simply, fishing with a nymph or wet fly instead of a dry fly. Although a nymph can be fished dry, and there are a wide variety of methods and rigging techniques, one setup/technique is very simple and effective and can be used in the majority of nymphing situations.
- start with a 9' tapered leader
- snip off the last (thinnest) 16" of the leader, then re-tie to the leader using a blood knot
- tie on a nymph with a standard or improved clinch knot
- pinch a tin (not lead) split shot onto the leader just above your blood knot (it won't slip down to the fly when secured above a knot)
- attach a strike indicator 1.5x the depth of water you'll be fishing

Leader
The length and diameter/strength of the leader depends on the water you're fishing, and standard fare is a 9' 4x monofilament leader. I usually trim off a bit of the end, then tie on a 14" length of 4x or 5x fluorocarbon tippet. After tying on new flies your leader will become shorter and shorter. Instead of using a new leader, just tie on more tippet, keeping 12-16" below the last blood knot so your tin shot doesn't slip.

Fly
The size and variety of fly depends of course on what the fish want to see in the water you're fishing and at the time of year you're fishing. To increase your chances of catching fish (and tangling) you can add a second fly by attaching a 14" piece of tippet to the shank of your first fly with a clinch knot. The first fly (closest to the weight) is usually bigger than the second fly to keep your entire rig tapered for more efficient casting. The first fly can also be used as an "attractor" since it's likely the first fly a fish will see. For example, a prince nymph or san juan worm may get the fish's attention, then it sees the love of its livelihood, a size 22 midge pupae drifting along right behind it! Dropping one size in tippet between the two flies is a good idea when using a smaller fly -- you decrease the possibility of the fish seeing the tippet, and the smaller tippet acts as a fuse if the second fly gets snagged (you only lose one fly when yanking your rig free).

Split Shot
More and more waters have banned lead , so do yourself and the environment a favor and just purchase tin shot (typically green colored). The amount of weight you use depends on current speed and depth. You need to get your nymph(s) on the bottom, where the fish hold (the current is slower at the bottom of a river due to friction, so fish use fewer calories when holding on the bottom). The deeper the water and the faster the current, the more weight you will need to get the fly to the bottom. You can buy a variety pack of shot which comes with four or six different sizes so you are ready for all conditions. Sometimes you will need three AAA (big) shot, sometimes one size 8 (small). The type of water I typically fish calls for one size 2, but occasionally I'll use two 2's, add a 6 and/or an 8...the point is that getting your fly on/near the bottom is essential. Your fly should hit bottom (as evidenced by your strike indicator ticking or diving) approximately every 4th cast, or you are not fishing deep enough.



Strike Indicator
My favorite strike indicator is a poly-yarn indicator with a rubber o-ring. One model has a small foam cylinder surrounded by yarn, and I like the fire tiger color. These work great, are visible in all conditions and stay afloat well, especially if you rub in a little floatant. If it gets windy or the water is low, slow, and clear, I like either the hot head or the Thingamabobber. The Thingamabobber casts better in the wind and comes in very small sizes for risk-averse fish, but has a tendency to slip down if used on the thin part of the leader.

Casting
You should be forceful on the backcast to rip all the stuff out of the water, and forceful on the forecast to ensure it doesn't all fall in a heap on the water in front of you (or in your lap if you're in a boat). Keep false casts to a minimum. False casts while nymphing should be used to either measure/add line or to change direction, and sometimes to snap water out of your yarn indicator. And don't try to throw tight loops, or you will be in for a mess. Use a little less wrist and a little more arm to achieve wider loops.

The Drift
Cast across and upstream from your target, and let your indicator and rig dead drift to your target. Mending your line one or more times is usually needed to achieve a good drift. If you don’t get a dead drift the drag on your line will pull your nymph(s) up off the bottom, as will a poor mend that pulls on the indicator. A good drift is when your indicator is drifting at the same speed as your fly, which means your indicator should be drifting slightly slower than the surface current (remember the current on the bottom is slower due to friction). If your indicator is drifting at the same speed as the surface current, your flies are moving too fast and that situation won't look realistic to the fish.

Set the Hook!
When your indicator hesitates, bounces, sinks, or tears across the water, set the hook! Don't assume your fly ticked the bottom -- the takes can be very subtle, and there will be a slight delay between the take and the indication of a take (via the indicator). Set the hook downstream, because the fish was most likely looking upstream when it took your fly, so setting the hook upstream could pull the fly right out of its mouth.

That's all there is to it! So for your next trip make sure you bring the correct nymphing gear, ask your local shop for advice on flies, and if the fish aren't eating on top give this technique a try!

Gorilla Glue vs. Zap-A-Gap for Foam Bodied Flies

I tie a few different foam fly patterns, and in most cases it involves gluing layers of closed cell craft foam together. Classic examples of flies where foam layers have been glued together are the Chernobyl Ant and Club Sandwich. I have always been a fan of Zap-A-Gap, even though if you're not careful it will stick your fingers together. Having your fingers stuck together can be a real pain when tying flies, but on the bright side you'd be picking up new skills. Zap-A-Gap dries clear, is waterproof, can be used for more than just gluing foam, and my layered foam flies have never come apart.

I ran out of Zap-A-Gap last November while gluing layers of foam together to use as a winterizing measure for a particulary drafty door. Now that Spring is upon us and I need to glue some foam together for my favorite hopper and stonefly patterns, I need glue. I searched four different stores and could not find any Zap-A-Gap! So I decided to do a research project to help inform my fellow fisherman, using two new products -- Gorilla Glue (standard stuff) and Gorilla "Super" Glue. I had used some other super glues in my winterizing efforts, but none worked as quickly, efficiently or effectively as Zap-A-Gap, so I did not try any of those for this research. However, all the super glues contain cyanoacrylate, which seems to be the common thread in good foam glues for flies.





First I tested the regular Gorilla Glue. I cut two pieces of 2mm craft foam, spread some Gorilla Glue on them, then pressed the two pieces of foam together. I then put a cd case on top of the foam, and my fly tying vise (heavy) on top of the cd case. I waited 1hr and checked the foam -- a little glue had oozed out of the edges, it was wet and sticky but I was able to clean it up pretty well. I checked again after 2 more hours, and way more glue had oozed out, but I couldn't clean it because it was a little to firm. I decided to wait until the next day for the glue to dry, then I would trim the excess glue with old tying scissors (don't want to dull good scissors).

By the next day more Gorilla Glue had oozed/foamed out, and it was dry. I trimmed it with scissors. But I was able to peel the two pieces of foam apart a little too easily for my liking. The dried glue where the foam had been stuck together had sort of a Rice Crispy consistency. Not good.

Next I tried the Gorilla "Super" Glue. It did not dissapoint. It seems like it took a little longer than Zap-A-Gap to fully cure (which helps you keep your fingers from sticking together), but in an hour the foam was ready for tying. I didn't put any weight on the foam sheets during the drying time; the Gorilla Super Glue (and Zap-A-Gap) seems to just meld the two foam strips together.

The Gorilla Super Glue claims it is waterproof, and I would think it would be fine in the water, especially since glue stuck between layers of foam would hardly ever come into contact with the water. I have never had trouble with Zap-A-Gap in that respect.

So Zap-A-Gap or Gorilla Super Glue? At this point I'd choose the Gorilla Super Glue, mainly because its price (per ml or oz) is less than Zap-A-Gap (and far less than any other super glues I found) and it's easy to find (hardware store). Zap-A-Gap does have a couple other labels which I'd like to try, but since I can't find any of it locally, I'll stick with the Gorilla Super Glue for now.

Please be aware that both the Gorilla Super Glue and Zap-A-Gap contain cyanoacrylate, which means they are combustable, have nasty fumes, and can really screw you up if you get it in your eyes, mouth, nose, or on your skin. So use in a well ventilated area away from open flames, and keep it well out of the reach of children.