Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Gorilla Glue vs. Zap-A-Gap for Foam Bodied Flies

I tie a few different foam fly patterns, and in most cases it involves gluing layers of closed cell craft foam together. Classic examples of flies where foam layers have been glued together are the Chernobyl Ant and Club Sandwich. I have always been a fan of Zap-A-Gap, even though if you're not careful it will stick your fingers together. Having your fingers stuck together can be a real pain when tying flies, but on the bright side you'd be picking up new skills. Zap-A-Gap dries clear, is waterproof, can be used for more than just gluing foam, and my layered foam flies have never come apart.

I ran out of Zap-A-Gap last November while gluing layers of foam together to use as a winterizing measure for a particulary drafty door. Now that Spring is upon us and I need to glue some foam together for my favorite hopper and stonefly patterns, I need glue. I searched four different stores and could not find any Zap-A-Gap! So I decided to do a research project to help inform my fellow fisherman, using two new products -- Gorilla Glue (standard stuff) and Gorilla "Super" Glue. I had used some other super glues in my winterizing efforts, but none worked as quickly, efficiently or effectively as Zap-A-Gap, so I did not try any of those for this research. However, all the super glues contain cyanoacrylate, which seems to be the common thread in good foam glues for flies.





First I tested the regular Gorilla Glue. I cut two pieces of 2mm craft foam, spread some Gorilla Glue on them, then pressed the two pieces of foam together. I then put a cd case on top of the foam, and my fly tying vise (heavy) on top of the cd case. I waited 1hr and checked the foam -- a little glue had oozed out of the edges, it was wet and sticky but I was able to clean it up pretty well. I checked again after 2 more hours, and way more glue had oozed out, but I couldn't clean it because it was a little to firm. I decided to wait until the next day for the glue to dry, then I would trim the excess glue with old tying scissors (don't want to dull good scissors).

By the next day more Gorilla Glue had oozed/foamed out, and it was dry. I trimmed it with scissors. But I was able to peel the two pieces of foam apart a little too easily for my liking. The dried glue where the foam had been stuck together had sort of a Rice Crispy consistency. Not good.

Next I tried the Gorilla "Super" Glue. It did not dissapoint. It seems like it took a little longer than Zap-A-Gap to fully cure (which helps you keep your fingers from sticking together), but in an hour the foam was ready for tying. I didn't put any weight on the foam sheets during the drying time; the Gorilla Super Glue (and Zap-A-Gap) seems to just meld the two foam strips together.

The Gorilla Super Glue claims it is waterproof, and I would think it would be fine in the water, especially since glue stuck between layers of foam would hardly ever come into contact with the water. I have never had trouble with Zap-A-Gap in that respect.

So Zap-A-Gap or Gorilla Super Glue? At this point I'd choose the Gorilla Super Glue, mainly because its price (per ml or oz) is less than Zap-A-Gap (and far less than any other super glues I found) and it's easy to find (hardware store). Zap-A-Gap does have a couple other labels which I'd like to try, but since I can't find any of it locally, I'll stick with the Gorilla Super Glue for now.

Please be aware that both the Gorilla Super Glue and Zap-A-Gap contain cyanoacrylate, which means they are combustable, have nasty fumes, and can really screw you up if you get it in your eyes, mouth, nose, or on your skin. So use in a well ventilated area away from open flames, and keep it well out of the reach of children.