Three Clinch Knots, Including a "Better" Clinch Knot

Fishing knots number in the dozens, but for the majority of fly fishing situations there is only one that you need to know in order to tie your fly to your line – the clinch knot. This article and accompanying videos will discuss and show you how to tie my three favorite terminal tackle knots – the clinch knot and two variations of the clinch knot -- my “better” clinch knot, and the Trilene knot.

I learned to tie a clinch knot as a boy fishing for catfish at a lake in New Hampshire. One night we were laying down on the beach at our favorite catfish hole, looking up at the stars, waiting for our rods to be dragged towards the water. An old-timer apparently knew about our not-so-secret spot and joined us. He asked me if I knew how to tie a “fisherman’s knot”. I told him I wasn’t sure (“fisherman’s knot” was kind of a generic name) and held his flashlight while he showed me the knot. “Five wraps,” he said. “Then pass it back through and pull it tight.”

Clinch Knot

The clinch knot is an all-purpose knot for tying on terminal tackle (tippet to fly). The knot is easy to tie, pretty strong, and great for the majority of situations when tying a fly onto tippet. The following video shows how to tie a clinch knot.



One tip that may save you some flies (and lost fish) is to vary the number of times you wrap the line back around itself. The standard is five, as the old-timer in New Hampshire taught me. Over time I’ve learned that five is an average; more or fewer wraps will make a better knot depending on the size of the tippet and hook eye. I will wrap six or seven times when the hook eye is outsized in relation to the tippet diameter, and only four times when the hook eye is undersized in relation to the tippet diameter. For example, with 5x tippet and a size 12 fly I may use 6 wraps; with 3x tippet and a size 8 fly I will typically use 4 wraps. Time on the water and a few broken tippets will tell you what’s ideal. This strategy applies to the following two knots as well.


A Better Clinch Knot

An “improved” clinch knot exists, and it’s a fine knot. However, I came up with my own version which, in addition to the improved security (from knot slippage) afforded by the improved clinch, is stronger than either the clinch or improved clinch. The following video shows how to tie my “better” clinch knot, including a slow motion replay of the secret sauce.



I use my “better” clinch knot for tying on almost all my flies. The exceptions are when I’m using 3x tippet, in which case I’ll usually go with a standard clinch; and when I’m using flies with really big hook eyes or stripping streamers, in which case I’ll use a Trilene knot (explained below).


Trilene Knot

I’m not sure if Trilene (Berkley) fishing company invented this knot, but apparently they get credit. The Trilene knot is tied the same way as the regular clinch knot, with one difference – you loop the line through the hook eye twice to start the process. Watch the following video to learn how to tie the Trilene knot.



I find that the Trilene knot is superior when tying on a big bead-head wooly bugger with 3x or 4x (and especially 5x if you have to go that light). Sometimes I’ll use it when I have to go with 4x or 5x to a big dry fly, which I don’t like to do unless the fish are really leader shy.

Give all three of these knots a try. I recommend practicing a few times at home using tippet and flies (not just bare hooks) because the “better” clinch and the Trilene knot can be a bit awkward to tie at first. Hopefully you’ll lose fewer flies to snags and you’ll land more fish. And be sure to share your skills with a kid!

Simple (and Effective) Nymphing

If you're a member of the "Dry or Die" fraternity, then here's a good spot to stop reading. However, if you're an open minded fly fisherman looking to maximize your chances of catching fish, read on. Now, I have nothing against catching fish on a dry fly -- how can one not like the challenge of carefully presenting a fly and coaxing a hungry fish into eating it? Especially when you get to see the whole event unfold! But fish are not always looking up, and it's well known that approximately 80% of a fish's calories are munched subsurface (in some fisheries, the number is north of 95%).

Nymphing is, simply, fishing with a nymph or wet fly instead of a dry fly. Although a nymph can be fished dry, and there are a wide variety of methods and rigging techniques, one setup/technique is very simple and effective and can be used in the majority of nymphing situations.
- start with a 9' tapered leader
- snip off the last (thinnest) 16" of the leader, then re-tie to the leader using a blood knot
- tie on a nymph with a standard or improved clinch knot
- pinch a tin (not lead) split shot onto the leader just above your blood knot (it won't slip down to the fly when secured above a knot)
- attach a strike indicator 1.5x the depth of water you'll be fishing

Leader
The length and diameter/strength of the leader depends on the water you're fishing, and standard fare is a 9' 4x monofilament leader. I usually trim off a bit of the end, then tie on a 14" length of 4x or 5x fluorocarbon tippet. After tying on new flies your leader will become shorter and shorter. Instead of using a new leader, just tie on more tippet, keeping 12-16" below the last blood knot so your tin shot doesn't slip.

Fly
The size and variety of fly depends of course on what the fish want to see in the water you're fishing and at the time of year you're fishing. To increase your chances of catching fish (and tangling) you can add a second fly by attaching a 14" piece of tippet to the shank of your first fly with a clinch knot. The first fly (closest to the weight) is usually bigger than the second fly to keep your entire rig tapered for more efficient casting. The first fly can also be used as an "attractor" since it's likely the first fly a fish will see. For example, a prince nymph or san juan worm may get the fish's attention, then it sees the love of its livelihood, a size 22 midge pupae drifting along right behind it! Dropping one size in tippet between the two flies is a good idea when using a smaller fly -- you decrease the possibility of the fish seeing the tippet, and the smaller tippet acts as a fuse if the second fly gets snagged (you only lose one fly when yanking your rig free).

Split Shot
More and more waters have banned lead , so do yourself and the environment a favor and just purchase tin shot (typically green colored). The amount of weight you use depends on current speed and depth. You need to get your nymph(s) on the bottom, where the fish hold (the current is slower at the bottom of a river due to friction, so fish use fewer calories when holding on the bottom). The deeper the water and the faster the current, the more weight you will need to get the fly to the bottom. You can buy a variety pack of shot which comes with four or six different sizes so you are ready for all conditions. Sometimes you will need three AAA (big) shot, sometimes one size 8 (small). The type of water I typically fish calls for one size 2, but occasionally I'll use two 2's, add a 6 and/or an 8...the point is that getting your fly on/near the bottom is essential. Your fly should hit bottom (as evidenced by your strike indicator ticking or diving) approximately every 4th cast, or you are not fishing deep enough.



Strike Indicator
My favorite strike indicator is a poly-yarn indicator with a rubber o-ring. One model has a small foam cylinder surrounded by yarn, and I like the fire tiger color. These work great, are visible in all conditions and stay afloat well, especially if you rub in a little floatant. If it gets windy or the water is low, slow, and clear, I like either the hot head or the Thingamabobber. The Thingamabobber casts better in the wind and comes in very small sizes for risk-averse fish, but has a tendency to slip down if used on the thin part of the leader.

Casting
You should be forceful on the backcast to rip all the stuff out of the water, and forceful on the forecast to ensure it doesn't all fall in a heap on the water in front of you (or in your lap if you're in a boat). Keep false casts to a minimum. False casts while nymphing should be used to either measure/add line or to change direction, and sometimes to snap water out of your yarn indicator. And don't try to throw tight loops, or you will be in for a mess. Use a little less wrist and a little more arm to achieve wider loops.

The Drift
Cast across and upstream from your target, and let your indicator and rig dead drift to your target. Mending your line one or more times is usually needed to achieve a good drift. If you don’t get a dead drift the drag on your line will pull your nymph(s) up off the bottom, as will a poor mend that pulls on the indicator. A good drift is when your indicator is drifting at the same speed as your fly, which means your indicator should be drifting slightly slower than the surface current (remember the current on the bottom is slower due to friction). If your indicator is drifting at the same speed as the surface current, your flies are moving too fast and that situation won't look realistic to the fish.

Set the Hook!
When your indicator hesitates, bounces, sinks, or tears across the water, set the hook! Don't assume your fly ticked the bottom -- the takes can be very subtle, and there will be a slight delay between the take and the indication of a take (via the indicator). Set the hook downstream, because the fish was most likely looking upstream when it took your fly, so setting the hook upstream could pull the fly right out of its mouth.

That's all there is to it! So for your next trip make sure you bring the correct nymphing gear, ask your local shop for advice on flies, and if the fish aren't eating on top give this technique a try!